The American dog breed Alaskan Malamute is listed by the FCI in group 5 of the Spitz and dogs of the archetype with the standard number 243 in section 1 of the Nordic sled dogs. The Alaskan Malamute is officially the state dog of Alaska and is featured on the Yukon coat of arms, among other places.
Alaskan Malamute Dog Breed Information
Height: Males: 63.5 cm, females: 58.5 cm
Weight: Males: 38 kg, females: 34 kg
FCI group: 5: Spitz and archetypal dogs
Section: 1: Nordic Sled Dogs
Country of origin: USA (Alaska)
Colors: light gray to black
Life expectancy: 10-12 years
Suitable as: family and companion dog
Sports: sled dog sport, agility
Temperament: friendly, independent, headstrong, independent, proud
Leaving requirements: high
Low drool potential
The thickness of hair high
Maintenance effort: medium
Coat Structure: Thick, rough, soft top coat and dense 2.5-5 cm long, oily and woolly undercoat
Child friendly: medium
Family dog: rather yes
Social: rather no
Standard of the Alaskan Malamute
The Malamute is a large, powerful sled dog, standard size is around 23 inches (58.42 cm) for females and 25 inches (63.5 cm) for males.
However, this is not a fixed measure, as even in the early days of breeding there were considerable size fluctuations, the smallest male Gripp-of-Yukon with only 21.5 inches (54.61 cm) and at the same time males of 27-28 inches, (68 .5-71cm).
The sizes of the bitches also vary, so that one basically speaks of a desired size, the overall appearance is decisive, i.e. the proportions have to be right.
The bone structure is strong, the paws are large and thick, and the neck is surrounded by a thick collar of fur. The head should be adequate to the body. The eyes are almond shaped and always brown, the darker the better. Blue eyes are a serious disqualifying fault.
The ears are relatively small in relation to the head, pointed, rounded at the top and set on the side of the head.
The snout is broad and strong, the lips taut.
The nose is black or dark brown, the lips accordingly.
Ultimately the overall appearance should be harmonious, a small male with a too large, broad head is just as undesirable as a large male with a too narrow head.
Fortunately, the Malamute still has a healthy normal head shape similar to that of the wolf, a snout that is too short would cause the loss of teeth and breathing difficulties seen in some heavily domesticated breeds.
The tail is carried like a plume over the back, stretched out backwards when working. And carried down when a senior Malamute is nearby. Although today I sometimes ask myself whether I misunderstood the standard and whether the rod is carried like a duck’s feather. Unfortunately, at exhibitions, no more value is placed on a rod that conforms to the standard, as dogs repeatedly get the form value mark excellent, even though they have a “ring tail” like an Akita!
Bitches are longer in physique than males, the lateral image corresponds to a rectangular shape. Malamutes come in all colors from pure white to sable (wild colored), wolf gray white, black white and red and white, the only pure color allowed is white. In the beginning, the colors of the Malamute were called differently, for example buffalo, i.e. sable, black silver, i.e. alaskan seal, cream, tan means blue-grey, today we would say wolf-grey. Fawn is gold or light sable. Seal is a dark wolf gray color with black tips.
The head is crested or has a white stripe, a white nape spot or white collar is allowed, but no spots and the white markings must be regular. So-called pintos are excluded from breeding. The face is pure white or has a dark mask, in the form of glasses or a black bridge of the nose, or both.
Giant breed?
the biggest nonsense are so-called giants. What is that supposed to be? A giant is a malamute that is overweight. The dogs are often twice as thick as a “normal” Malamute. It’s a “sales ploy” by dubious breeders, currently only in the US, thank God. Let’s hope this scam doesn’t spill over to Europe. Since the size of the Malamute is different, males with 63cm as well as males with 75cm, many breeders have Malamutes of different sizes. There are no giants, there are only normally fed and overweight dogs, this is not a breed difference but human unreasonableness…
Face badge
Hood:
a crest marked by color covers the top of the head and ears and tapers toward the center of the face.
Glasses:
dark markings under the eyes, spreading sideways towards the hood.
Face bar:
dark markings extending from the tip of the hood to the nose.
Eyeshadow:
dark markings under eyes, but not extending sideways to hood.
Blaze:
white marking between crest and face. Size and width may vary.
Star:
small, white star in the middle of the face.
Closed face:
dark color covering the whole face, no conspicuous white marking.
Open face:
hood covering the top of the head, but no other facial markings.
Chest badge
Chest band: dark band across the chest
Eagle chest band: two dark bands crossed across the chest (resembling the emblem of the eagle)
Neck badge
Collar: white band running around the neck
Shoulder patch: white patch varying in size on the withers or at the base of the neck.
Error: asymmetrical characters
The coat consists of 2 layers, the undercoat with a length between 1-2 inches, (2.54-5.08 cm), the guard hair correspondingly longer. The fur is rough and protrudes from the body like a protective coat, the undercoat is soft and woolly.
I have to say something about the fur from my personal experience. Some of my puppies have a woolly baby fur, which sheds at the age of about 6 months, after that they have a normal but extremely beautiful fur. After several conversations with American and Belgian breeders, I was sure that this was absolutely normal and got to the bottom of why people in Germany have such difficulties. In this case, the Americans speak of an “outstanding show coat”. It then turned out to me that there was clearly a translation error in an article that was sent out, as well as in a book by Annemarie Kolbe and Anneliese Braun-Witschel , in which it says: the guard hair is between 2.5-5cm long. Therefore, I would like to draw all readers’ attention to the standard again: The undercoat is between 2.54 and 5.08 cm long, the top coat is correspondingly longer. After all, the Malamute is a sled dog that can live in the coldest regions and it is therefore important that its coat is well insulated and therefore of a certain length.
So-called long coats are undesirable.
With a long coat, the fur consists of just one layer of long hair, it has no underfur, which can lead to insulation problems, the fur does not repel water, and the dogs get soaked to the skin when it rains. In addition, this fur, which is also so long between the toes, hinders the dogs when running, but then thick lumps of ice form between the toes and under the pads, which are of course also painful.
In the genetic sense, the Longcoat is a single recessive allele; both parents must be gene carriers in order to inherit this coat property. Certainly, though, these dogs are just as beautiful and lovable as their shorter-haired relatives.
In Germany these dogs are called Wooly, although this is of course very misleading, as the original standard says: The undercoat is oily and wooly; For this reason, I prefer to use the term long coat, as is customary in the country of origin. Nevertheless, long coats are used in breeding in America and also in other European countries. Since the possibility of being able to determine the hair length through the further development of genetic examinations, we in the Alaskan Malamute Club have adjusted the breeding regulations so that long coats can also be bred if they are mated with a homozygous short-haired partner.
FCI – Standard No. 243 / 05.01.2000 / D
ORIGIN: U.S.A.
DATE OF PUBLICATION OF THE ORIGINAL VALID STANDARD: 08/14/1996.
UTILIZATION: Sled dog.
FCI CLASSIFICATION: Group 5 Spitz and Primitive type dogs.
Section 1 Nordic Sled Dogs.
Without work test.
GENERAL APPEARANCE : One of the oldest Arctic sled dogs, the Alaskan Malamute is of powerful, substantial build with a deep chest and strong, well-muscled body. The Malamute stands upright on its paws and embodies pride and great joy in movement with its upright head position and eyes that radiate alertness, interest and curiosity. His head is big. Ears are triangular and pricked when attention is drawn. The muzzle is massive and narrows only slightly from the base to the nose. It is neither pointed nor long nor short and thick. The coat is thick with a rough topcoat of sufficient length to protect the undercoat. Malamutes can be different colors. Typical is a head drawing that extends over the head like a cap, with the face either being completely white or showing a line and/or a mask. The tail is well haired and carried over the back; she has the appearance of a waving plume of feathers. The Malamute must have heavy bones and powerful legs, good paws, a deep chest, powerful shoulders, and all other physical traits necessary for it to do its job efficiently. Its movement must be even, harmonious, tireless and perfectly efficient. He was not bred to be a racing sled dog for speed competitions.
The Malamute is built for strength and endurance, and any characteristic, including the essence, that interferes with the fulfillment of that purpose must be considered a very grave fault.
IMPORTANT PROPORTIONS : The lowest point of the chest is just behind the forelegs, approximately halfway up the height at the withers. The length of the body, measured from the point of the shoulder to the point of the buttock, exceeds the height at the withers.
BEHAVIOR / TEMPERAMENT : The Alaskan Malamute is an affectionate, friendly dog, not a “one man dog”. He is a loyal, devoted companion, playful when prompted; Above all, however, he impresses with his dignity when he is fully grown.
HEAD : Broad and deep, neither coarse nor misshapen; its size is in good proportion to the overall size of the dog. His expression is soft and shows his loving disposition.
CRANIAL REGION :
Skull : Broad and moderately arched between the ears, gradually narrowing towards the eyes and flattening at the top, tapering towards the cheeks. There is a slight furrow between the eyes. The profile lines of the skull and foreface show a slight downward deviation from the straight line at their junction.
Stop: Flat.
FACIAL REGION :
Nose: In all color varieties, except red, the nose, lips and lid edges are pigmented black. Brown pigmentation is permitted in red dogs. A “winter nose” with a lighter stripe is acceptable.
Muzzle: Large and massive in relation to skull; it tapers slightly in width and depth from the base to the nose.
Lips: Tight fitting.
Jaws/Teeth: Wide jaws with large teeth. scissor bite. Overshot or undershot is a fault.
Cheeks: Moderately flattened.
Eyes: Set obliquely, brown, almond shaped and of medium size. Blue eyes are a disqualifying fault.
Ears: Medium sized but small in relation to the size of the head. They are triangular in shape with a slightly rounded tip. They are set well apart on the outer edges of the posterior region of the skull, level with the outer corners of the eyes, giving the impression that when erect they project from the skull. The erect ears point slightly forward, but when the dog is working the ears are sometimes folded towards the skull. High set ears are a mistake.
NECK: Strong and moderately arched.
BODY: Compact but not too short in the loin. The body is not overweight, the strength of the bones is in good proportion to the body size.
Back: In a straight line, sloping slightly towards the hips.
Loins: Firm and well muscled. A long loin that could weaken the back is faulty.
Chest: Well developed.
TAIL: Set on moderately high in line with the spine. When the dog is not working, the tail is carried over the back. It does not lie flat on its back, nor is it carried tightly curled on its back, nor does it have hair as short as that of a fox. The malamute’s tail is very hairy and resembles a waving plume of feathers.
LIMBS:
FOREQUARTERS: The forelegs are heavily boned and heavily muscled; they are straight down to the pastern when viewed from the front.
Shoulders: Moderately sloping.
Pasterns: Short and strong, slightly sloping when viewed from the side.
HINDQUARTERS: Broad. When viewed from behind, hind legs are and move in line with front legs, neither too narrow nor too wide. Dewclaws on the hind legs are undesirable and should be removed soon after the puppies are born.
Thighs: Very heavily muscled.
Hock: Moderately angulated, set low.
FEET: “Snowshoe” type, firm and deep with well padded pads, appearing firm and compact. The paws are large; the toes are close together and well arched. Protective hair grows between the toes. The pads are thick and durable, the toenails short and strong.
GAIT: The movement of the Malamute is smooth, harmonious and powerful. He is agile for his size and build. Seen from the side, the hindquarters show a strong drive, which is transmitted via the well-muscled loins to the front legs, which translate this drive into even, space-consuming steps. Legs move forward in a straight line when viewed from the front or rear, neither too narrow nor too wide. In a fast trot, the footprint approaches the imaginary center line of the body. A stilted walk or any other movement that is not totally efficient and effortless should be penalized.
COAT:
HAIR: The Malamute has a thick, rough – not long, soft – top coat. The undercoat is dense, about 2.5 to 5 cm (1 to 2 inches) long, oily and woolly. The top coat varies in length, as does the undercoat. It is relatively short to medium length on the sides of the body while being longer around the neck and shoulders, down the back, over the croup, on the hamstrings, and on the bushy tail.
During the summer months, Malamutes usually have shorter, less dense hair. The Malamute is shown in a natural coat. Trimming is not allowed, except for the paws to keep them neatly contoured.
COLOR: The usual colors are light gray to black with all intermediate shades and sable including its shade tending towards red. Color combinations are permitted in the undercoat, in the head markings and in the transitions between the white areas of the underbody and the dark body colour. The only permitted uniform color is pure white. White is always the predominant color on the lower body, parts of the legs, the paws, and parts of the facial markings. A white blaze on the forehead and/or a collar or patch on the back of the neck is attractive and acceptable. The Malamute’s body has mantle markings; Broken colors extending across the body or uneven mottle are undesirable.
HEIGHT AND WEIGHT:
There is a natural range in size for this breed. The desired size for load pulling is:
Males: 63.5 cm (25 inches). Height at the withers for a body weight of 38 kg (85 lbs.).
Bitches: 58.5 cm (23 inches). Height at the withers for a body weight of 34 kg (75 lbs.).
However, the importance of size should not override that of type, proportions, movement and other functionally important characteristics. When judging dogs of equal type, proportion and movement, preference should be given to the dog closest to the desired working size.
IMPORTANT SUMMARY: When judging the Alaskan Malamute, its ability to pull heavy loads as a sled dog in the Arctic must be of the highest priority. The degree of devaluation of a dog should depend on the extent to which the dog deviates from the description of the ideal Malamute and to what extent the particular deficiency would actually affect the dog’s ability to work. The Malamute’s legs must show unusual strength and tremendous thrust. Any sign of impaired performance of the legs and paws in the fore or hindquarters, whether stationary or moving, must be considered a serious fault. Such faults would be splayed paws, cow haunches, poor pasterns, steep shoulders, lack of angulation, a stilted gait (or any other movement that is not harmonious, powerful, and even), lanky, lacking in substance, clumsiness, lack of bone strength, and an ill-proportioned one General appearance.
FAULTS: Any deviation from the above points must be considered a fault, the severity of which should be in exact proportion to the degree of the deviation.
ELIMINATING FAULTS:
Aggressive or fearful.
Blue eyes.
Dogs that are aggressive, fearful, or show behavioral problems must be disqualified.
N.B.: Males must have two apparently normally developed testicles fully descended into the scrotum.
Origin and Breed History
For thousands of years, the Alaskan Malamute has been a reliable companion to all people who lived in the Arctic Circle. In 2017, excavations unearthed malamutes that were a whopping 9,000 years old. The Malamute is one of the oldest dog breeds of its kind and for a long time was the only breed that lived in the Arctic. It is believed that these dogs originally came from Siberia and that they came to North America via a land bridge. The Norse peoples depended on these dogs before snowmobiles existed.
In the early 20th century, dog sledding was a sport that grew in popularity over the years. This made the Malamute the star of sled dogs – until the first ancestor of the Siberian Husky appeared in 1920 and surpassed him. At this time, other breeds were increasingly being crossed into the Alaskan Malamute. In 1926 the official breeding of the breed, which got its name from the Eskimo tribe Malemuten, began.
Due to increased breeding, the appearance of the dogs became more and more uniform, but little has changed in their original nature. They require strong leadership and have a strong will to work. While the Alaskan Malamute’s primary role has always been to pull the sled, these dogs have also been used for hunting and protecting human settlements.
In 1935 the first breed standard for this dog was created. In 1963 the breed was recognized by the FCI. The first Alaskan Malamute came to Germany in 1970. Today there are two clubs for the breed within the VDH: the German Club for Nordic Dogs and the Alaskan Malamute Club.
Genetics, small encyclopedia
genetics
Characteristics, as well as diseases, can be inherited.
genes
Genes are hereditary factors with messages. They sit on the chromosomes. Since each chromosome occurs in pairs and half is father, half mother, all genes from each parent contain 50% information.
polygenic
means that a property lies on different gene loci.
monogenic
means that a trait is attached to a gene. Hair length, for example, is inherited monogenetically.
alleles
Alternatives of a gene are called alleles, long- OR short-haired, e.g. they are given in letters, whereby capital letters are used for the dominant allele and lower-case letters for recessive alleles.
Geno/Phenotype
Genotype: A dog is a carrier of a recessive gene, it can pass it on, but it is not visible, it can possibly be determined through offspring.
Phenotype: A dog is also an optical carrier of a gene
dominant
means that it is enough if the message is on one gene locus, does not have to come from both parents and always prevails (short hair, for example)
recessive
means it may be inherited and both parents must be gene carriers and dominant genes will prevail over them.
homozygous
Homozygous, both alleles are the same. So 2 upper case letters or 2 lower case letters. See also hair length!
heterozygous
Mixed, i.e. a capital letter and a small letter. e.g. phenotypically shorthair, but genotypically a shorthair and a longhair gene, with the shorthair gene being dominant.
autosomal
gender independent
gender-linked
certain genes are only found on the X or Y chromosomes and are therefore only inherited by the female or male carrier.
some examples:
HD is a polygene. However, HD is also promoted 1/3 by feeding and 1/3 by keeping. (Source: K.D.Kammerer The millennium error of veterinary medicine)
Cryptorchidism is a polygenic threshold. When both parents have occupied enough gene loci to cross an imaginary threshold, cryptorchids emerge.
Haemophilia is a sex-linked gene. X-linked recessive. The disease-causing gene is on an X chromosome, is from female. partner inherited. since it is recessive, only male offspring can become ill. Because, with female Offspring gain a healthy dominant X chromosome from the father. In male offspring, a Y chromosome is added, so nothing that can set an opposite pole to the disease-causing gene.
hair length=
Genotype: LL= homozygous short-haired; (homozygous) phenotype: short haired
Genotype: Ll= heterozygous short-haired (i.e. carrier of the long-hair gene, so it can be passed on) Phenotype: short-haired (capital letters are dominant) (hetoerozygous)
Genotype: ll= homozygous long-haired phenotype: long-haired
What does a breeder do to avoid diseases?
HD
Matings of C hips only in conjunction with A or B, the HD is assumed to be a polygenic threshold.
cataract
it can be assumed that the genetic cataract is a polygene. Cataract dogs must not be bred from and all dogs must be examined annually.
polyneuropathy
The recessive gene for polyneuropathy was found in mid-2012 and Laboklin offers a simple test for this gene.
A carrier cannot develop polyneuropathy, but can pass the gene on to up to 50% of their offspring.
Gene carriers can and should continue to be used for breeding, a gene carrier does not only consist of this gene but also has other qualities that it passes on.
However, in the long term, over a few generations, breeders must strive to eliminate this gene from breeding.
2 equally good dogs from a litter, one of which carries a gene and the other does not give the opportunity to use the free dog, but this must not be done with a “crowbar”, otherwise the breed will lose too many good genes and the gene pool will continue to grow restricted.
For this reason, breeding MUST be carried out consciously and with foresight. At the moment it is absolutely sufficient to breed gene carriers with free, so you get healthy dogs, which are 50% also gene carriers, but you also get 50% free offspring, which have other healthy genes in relation to HD and cataracts carry. It would be fatal if one were to rigorously exclude gene carriers and the gene pool would then possibly be increasingly reduced to HD or cataracts or other diseases.
Free dogs are: N/N
Gene carrier: N/AMPN
Of course, matings of N/N with N/N do not produce a gene carrier, that must be the long-term goal.
Breeding with untested dogs MUST be a thing of the past.
The investigation and the fact that it is a single recessive allele is a gift would the others be
Conditions such as HD and cataracts are also so easy to examine, breeders would be delighted.
So you want to be a breeder?
Oh, so you want to be a breeder, really? How nice. I am also a breeder. But before you decide to breed, here are some things a breeder should know and have before breeding.
1. They must be willing to clean up puke, urine, and poop. chewed up couches, ruined shoes and smashed trash cans. You must be willing to do this day after day, and every day, and again and again…
2. You need a good stomach. they must be able to dispose of putrid fetuses that their pregnant bitch loses mid-pregnancy in a miscarriage, mind you in a pregnancy they’ve been waiting 2 years for. They need good stomachs when they look down at the deformed being that their dog has given birth to, and they need them when they humanely dispose of this monster.
3. They need a strong heart to be able to raise and love their healthy puppies only to then leave them in the hands of strangers who will scold, neglect, hit or at best ignore them. they need the strong heart when the puppy that has a good home has an accident or gets sick. they need it when the tears of these good owners find their way into their hearts.
4. They need a lot of space to keep hot bitches away from males, males away from each other, and puppies away from everything. don’t forget the place for the last two puppies they couldn’t find homes for, or the rescue dog their breed club asked them to adopt, or the puppy from their last litter that the owners decided wouldn’t is right for her.
5. They must be able to endure grief and loneliness. because you lose a bitch in childbirth and you realize it was YOUR decision to mate that bitch and YOU are the reason she is dead. they need that when they then explain to their children that the miracle of childbirth also has its dark sides.
6. They need an employer who understands that if their bitch dies during childbirth, they will of course not come to work because they have to feed the puppies every 2 hours.
…. wait a minute, take a breath, you breeders are all the same. you tell us scary stories to keep us from breeding forever. what about the money You breeders just want to prevent competition from arising….
oh yes, the money, good of you to mention it!
7. You need money. lots of money. Maybe more than they have. especially maybe because the employer mentioned above is not as understanding as you thought? should we do some math?
Veterinary bills, caesarean section, stud taxes, pedigrees, vaccinations, deworming, puppy examinations, special diets, puppy leashes, .. let it be about $2500 per litter if nothing special comes up. all this has to be paid for before the puppies are sold and if one is stillborn don’t forget the cost of the autopsy. well, when the litter is born, all in show quality (we are all allowed to dream, it’s not forbidden), and you find the dream home for each puppy, you have lost about $750.
wait, where are they going? I haven’t said anything about the show fees, the instructor for the shows. Costs for: looking for and finding the right stud dog, legislation, inclusion in a stud book, HD X-ray and eye examination, dog racing, training wagons, sleds, harnesses, stakeout, caravans, vans, angry neighbors, dog taxes, old dogs, …
And also the next article you have to be able to stand if you want to breed, if you don’t want to breed don’t read it!
Nature & temperament of the Alaskan Malamute
The Alaskan Malamute is primarily a workhorse. He loves to run, so keeping this dog purely as a family pet is a bit difficult in southern climes unless his owners regularly sled dog race with this dog. When the dog is at rest, its temperament seems rather sluggish, but this is completely reversed when it is allowed to run.
The Malamute is a pack animal, not a loner. He is loyal to his people, behaves affectionately, and friendly. He has a dignified character but also likes to play when encouraged to do so. Like many archetypal dogs, the Malamute is not easy to train. It requires consistency and empathy in equal measure and strong leadership. Only if humans can offer this to the sled dog will it subordinate itself, gain trust and be easy to lead.
Alaskan Malamute creatures
Now you surely want to know something about the Alaskan Malamute.
Well, we’re extremely people-friendly and big cuddlers. However, we have a huge stubborn head. If you can’t tell us what you want from us and why, then YOU have a problem. We need consistent education, but please with tact and empathy. We don’t like to be alone because we are still a very original breed of dog. We like to live in a pack, we don’t care about people or dogs, only hierarchies have to be observed.
When establishing a hierarchy, we sometimes have a problem with dogs, because we have extremely large teeth and unfortunately there are also injuries. We need a lot of exercise, really!!! Very much!!! In Alaska, our country of origin, we were mainly used as working dogs, transporting large loads over long distances, but we are not fast racers like our smaller relatives, the huskies. So if you think we are the right breed for you, take a look inside and consider whether you really meet all the criteria. And be aware that a second Alaskan Malamute will usually follow right behind!!!
The Malamute is a friendly proud dog, but not a one-man dog, exceptions prove the rule. He has a natural dignity when he grows up. He prefers to live outside in a pack, where he shows first-class social behavior. But that doesn’t mean that he doesn’t like occupying the couch or the bed, eating off his master’s plate and generally enjoying the company of his human family.
What is the difference between Alaskan Malamute and Husky?
The biggest difference between Alaskan Malamute and Siberian Husky is their size. The Malamute is significantly larger and heavier than its Siberian brother. In addition, huskies often have blue eyes, while malamutes always have brown ones.
The Malamute in the pack
The Alaskan Malamute does not bark, due to the breed, the pack will howl when a siren is heard, but this usually does not last longer than about 30 seconds.
The Alaskan Malamutes are more “wolfish” than many other dog breeds when it comes to living together.
Here the father and the rest of the pack as well as the young dogs also take over part of the education, thus relieving the mother noticeably.
The puppies learn to respect the older ones. They submit by throwing themselves on their backs and offering their throats, lowering their tails when passing an adult dog, tilting their heads to the side, and crouching, presumably to become even smaller and more inconspicuous or even invisible .
The alpha male trains through play, but will snarl if things get too wild, or wrinkle his nose, pucker up, leap at them unexpectedly and they will scatter and submit from a safe distance.
In general, dogs also seem to have a personal radius that no one should enter. As long as a certain distance is kept, everything goes well, but if another dog crosses this personal invisible threshold, he has to reckon with the consequences.
The appearance of the Alaskan Malamute
The Alaskan Malamute can reach a length of up to 64 centimeters and a weight of up to 38 kilograms. Females and males are about the same size and weight. The sled dog has a very thick and weatherproof coat with a very distinctive undercoat that is greasy and can grow up to two inches long.
The top coat over the undercoat is relatively short. The Alaskan Malamute is black in color with white markings on the chest, face and paws. Likewise, it can be gray and have different shades of brown. In rare cases, the fur of these dogs can also be red. It’s very rarely white. The Alaskan Malamute’s eyes are brown or black. The breed is the largest and strongest of all sled dogs. She was not bred for speed, but for power, strength, and endurance.
The body of the sled dog is very strong and muscular. In addition, this dog has a strong chest. The posture of the Malamute shows alertness, curiosity, the joy of movement, and pride. The head is fairly broad with triangular ears that prick up when alert. The muzzle is relatively wide, not pointed, of medium length and thick. The tail of this dog is very hairy and carried erect, curled towards the back.
Upbringing and husbandry of the Alaskan Malamute – this is important to note
Keeping an Alaskan Malamute is not recommended for novice dogs. If you choose this dog, your whole life must be based on it, because this dog not only needs physical performance, but also mental ones. For this reason, the Malamute must be offered an alternative even without snow. There are special competitions where Malamutes are allowed to pull loads and also wheeled sleds that he can pull without snow.
Anyone who owns an Alaskan Malamute will experience a whole new kind of unity between humans, animals and nature. Certainly, this dog is only suitable for very sporty people. He must not be kept in a city apartment, but must have a house in the country with closeness to nature. Originally a pack dog, the Malamute is one of the few breeds that can live year-round with multiple dogs outdoors in a kennel. However, it is important to note that the Malamute is a master escaper from kennels and gardens. This strong dog is extremely good in the ditch, so everything should be well secured.
Only the experienced dog owner who can offer the Alaskan Malamute the appropriate guidance will quickly realize how obedient and easy to train the otherwise somewhat dominant dog can be. Beginners should better stay away from this breed.
I have already described the upbringing in the pack, but what is it like when you get your first Malamute?
Now the most important thing is consistency. NEVER give a command if you can see in advance that the dog will not or cannot obey it anyway. examples? The dog is playing with another dog or greeting another dog and they call him… He won’t really notice you, they’ll say, alright, 5 more minutes and you want him to understand? What did he learn? If he ignores her, he doesn’t have to obey…
He’s allowed on the couch, he’s not allowed on the couch?
He doesn’t get anything from the table, but grandpa always secretly gives him a piece….
He’s chewing on a bone and you want to look at his teeth or ears or whatever, because that comes to mind?
Of course he has to learn that his master can always take everything away from him, but he also has to learn that he gets it back, because mutual trust is the basic condition of a good upbringing.
You teach him to sit while he waits for his food, your wife doesn’t care?
Nothing can happen like that. First, you have to be clear about when to say what. The dog has to get short commands, not something like: Darling, please come over here…. (I’ve heard it all before…)
And for the reason that YOU learn how to do this, I recommend you go to a dog school. There are really good dog schools out there, you just have to find them. You should reject any violence towards dogs. You should have experience in training Nordic dogs. And therefore also know when it is too much of a good thing. A Malamute doesn’t have to be able to tango on the tip of its tail, but it should learn rules and that’s what it and especially you learn best in a good school. And clarify in advance whether you would like to do sled dog sport with your Malamute. Because then he should pull and you should not break the habit of him. The easiest way for him to learn the difference between when to move and when not is to be able to link things together.
collar and leash = walk….
Harness, jogging leash, and waist belt (bicycle, scooter) = pull….
This should be discussed in the dog school beforehand. Some schools find harnesses nicer to educate and then they have a mess…
If you are already practicing the commands with your pup, never walk him right (left) without using the right (or whatever) command. Don’t stop without saying stop.
But be prepared for the stubbornness of an Alaskan Malamute. Patience and consistency are the magic words.
Feeding
Lining
There are many high-quality types of feed. It is important that the puppy gets its food 3 times a day for the first few weeks in its new home. According to the latest findings, the protein content is irrelevant, it should be over 26%.
The final size of a dog is genetically determined.
The right amount of calcium in phosphorus is important, this is balanced in the good puppy food types, that’s why we feed puppy food up to 12 months of age.
On average, 350g/day of each type of feed is sufficient. Especially in the training phase, when you give more treats than is beneficial.. Take the test, every time you give a treat, put the same amount in a cup. You’ll be amazed how much comes together each day.
Give your young dog something to chew
Your furniture will thank you
During the change of teeth, young dogs chew on everything they can get between their teeth. And unfortunately it is often swallowed, so that sometimes you find the strangest things in the faeces…
The young dog and the adult dog get their food twice a day, in the morning and in the evening. After feeding, they play for about 1/2 hour, after which it’s time to rest. The food will now swell and the dog should not be playing or going for long walks. Give your dog fresh tripe, green tripe that still contains everything cattle chew. Bones or a piece of meat to chew. Bones cause constipation, so maybe the next day about 200g of fresh liver, that balances it out again, or you add sauerkraut to the bone, that wraps the bone up a bit. The dog excrement should be firm and not too much, if more at the back comes out when you feed in the front, you should quickly change the feed.
Freshwater must always be available for a dog.
Water?
Sled dogs that are working are watered about 2 hours before they run. that means they get about 1L of water to drink. In order to get the whole thing “inside”, the water is enriched. either with broth, or with fish. Oil sardines or tuna in oil are particularly good. The chunks sink to the bottom of the bowl and to get them you have to drink the water first…
Treat?
Every dog enjoys doing its job when it is rewarded. They don’t work without pay either… Dry goods such as pig ears, tripe, pizzles, buffalo hide bones to name but a few are gladly accepted. but please consider that pig ears contain a relatively large amount of fat and subtract a little from the normal amount of food, otherwise, your dog will become a chubby one..
And that’s too much to reward a puppy during its training. Find dog crackers to share. It’s not the quantity that counts, it’s the reward itself that counts!
Dental hygiene in dogs
Dental hygiene should not only be a matter of course for us humans, but also for our pets. Unfortunately, many dog owners only notice dental problems in their pet when their pet draws attention to themselves with bad breath or refuses food. At this stage, dental plaque and massive inflammation of the gums can already be found.
We humans take it for granted that we visit the dentist once or twice a year for preventive care and check-ups. An annual dental check should also be part of the norm for dogs. The annoying and painful tartar formation can be eliminated in the early stages.
Tartar appears as a yellow-brown, rough coating on the teeth. As a preliminary stage, a soft plaque forms, which consists of saliva components, food residues and bacteria. Minerals are stored in them, which lead to extreme hardening of the dental plaque.
If the formation of tartar progresses, the gums become inflamed, and later the periodontium also becomes diseased, as the tartar pushes itself under the gums. At this stage, the animals attract attention with an unpleasant halitosis. This is followed by suppuration processes and a painful loosening of the teeth. The rough tartar coating on the cheeks of the back teeth leads to constant friction with the buccal mucosa. This is injured, becomes inflamed and, like the injured gums, becomes an ideal entry point for pathogens. In this way, bacteria easily enter the bloodstream and can mainly attach themselves to the heart valves and kidneys in the form of abscesses.
Apparently, some animals have a special predisposition to tartar formation, since tartar formation occurs very differently with the same feeding. A balanced diet should be taken as a precaution. In addition to the usual ready-made food, an offer of raw vegetables, buffalo skin bones or dried pig ears can satisfy the urge to chew and at the same time strengthen teeth and gums.
Tartar removal is performed with an ultrasonic device, just like in humans. However, some of our four-legged friends only put up with this procedure under anesthesia.
With regular dental check-ups, it usually doesn’t even get that far. This makes it possible for the dog to keep healthy and beautiful teeth well into old age.
Denture
A puppy gets its first teeth, its milk teeth, at the age of about 3-4 weeks. A fully developed deciduous set of teeth has 28 teeth. The change of teeth begins in the third to fourth month. The complete dentition consists of 42 teeth, of which in the upper jaw 6 incisors (Incisivi = I), two canines or fangs (Canini = C), 8 front molars (premolars = P) and two rear molars (molars = M). There are two molars in the lower jaw. By the age of 6-7 months, the change of teeth should be complete. Tooth positions are divided into:
· Pincer bite, here the incisors of both jaws bite together exactly.
· When underbiting, the lower incisors reach in front of the upper ones.
· In overbite/overbite, the incisors of the lower jaw come behind the upper incisors.
· In a scissor bite, the upper incisors bite slightly over the lower ones.
How much does an Alaskan Malamute cost?
An Alaskan Malamute puppy from a reputable breeder will cost anywhere from $1,000 to $1,200.
Diet of the Alaskan Malamute
The Alaskan Malamute is a fussy dog when it comes to food. Raw feeding is best for him, both in terms of taste and health. There are special recipes for the needs of this dog breed. Every dog owner who decides to feed their dog raw must be very familiar with the composition of the food. This requires considerably more effort than, for example, feeding with dry food.
Since dogs are always individually different, it can also be the case that a Malamute is less picky about its food. In this case, the dog can also be fed with dry food that is as natural as possible. From time to time it is advisable to add wet food to give the dog a different taste.
What Do Alaskan Malamutes Eat?
If the Alaskan Malamute is picky about food, they should be fed BARF. Otherwise, as with other dogs, good dry food that is as natural as possible is sufficient.
Health – life expectancy & common diseases
Normally, the Alaskan Malamute is a very healthy dog that lives up to 12 years and thus has a fairly long life expectancy. In some cases, today these dogs are bred with very short legs, which should not be encouraged when buying a puppy, as this could affect the health of the breed in the future.
Since the Alskan Malamute likes to exercise and is rather choosy when it comes to eating, it does not tend to be overweight. The Alaskan Malamute not only tolerates cold well, but actually loves it. These dogs sleep well in the snow, curling up into a snail. The exact opposite is the case when it is hot, which is why keeping it in very warm areas of the world is not recommended.
Care of the Alaskan Malamute
An Alaskan Malamute’s coat needs regular brushing. At least once a week, better more often. This dog changes its coat twice a year and loses a lot of hair during this time. Although the Alaskan dog will be brushed regularly during these stages, his hair will be everywhere.
In addition to regular brushing, the Alaskan Malamute’s ears and claws also need to be checked. Dirty ears can cause infections. If the claws do not wear out sufficiently on their own, they must be trimmed or the dog may injure itself.
Parasites
Worms
The most common parasites in dogs include roundworms (roundworms/nematodes), which occur in almost every puppy but also in older animals. This wide distribution is made possible on the one hand by the enormous shedding of eggs (a female can produce up to 100,000 eggs per day) and on the other hand by the great resilience of the eggs in the outside world.
Roundworm can be transmitted in several ways:
Prenatal Transmission: The most common route of infection is transmission from mother to puppies. Roundworm larvae are transmitted from the mother to the puppies in the uterus via the umbilical cord before birth. The puppies can then pass eggs with the faeces after only 3 weeks.
Transmission via milk: Another route of infection, although not as common, is transmission via breast milk (galactogenic transmission). The larvae are swept away with the bloodstream into the well-supplied mammary gland, and the pups are continually infected as they suckle.
Transmission by swallowing: Finally, puppies and the mother herself can become infected from the eggs excreted in the faeces. In the animal, the roundworms go through a body migration. The larvae pierce the intestinal wall and reach the liver and later the lungs via lymph and blood. Finally, they burrow into the airways of the lungs, are coughed up and swallowed. After 4-5 weeks in the small intestine, they mature into about 10 cm large, adult worms. In older animals, the larvae migrate into the muscles and form dormant stages, which become active when pregnant again as described above and infect the pups. Since the larvae remain viable in the musculature for a very long time, one mother can infect several litters. If the infectious eggs get into humans, roundworm larvae can also encapsulate themselves in the muscles. However, if larvae are swept into the eyes or central nervous system with the blood, they cause serious failure symptoms (zoonoses).
In adult animals, roundworm infestation is usually asymptomatic, while puppies can become seriously ill, depending on the severity of the infestation, and sometimes even die. Typical symptoms are coughing, nasal discharge, a swollen abdomen (worm belly), shaggy coat and delayed growth. If the infestation is severe, the worms also migrate to the stomach and are then vomited up. The adult roundworms are food competitors and deprive their hosts of important nutrients, particularly vitamin D, which can lead to rickets (softening of the bones) in puppies.
Therefore, a breeder deworms his puppies for the first time at 14 days and then regularly at intervals of 2 weeks. Also, of course, the mother and all pack members….
Fox tapeworm
Risk of infection for humans and pets
The fox tapeworm is a parasite that affects not only the fox. In addition to small rodents, which are always involved in the chain of infection, cats and, in rarer cases, dogs and humans can also be affected.
The sexually mature tapeworm, which is only a few millimeters long, lives in the small intestine of its definitive host. Like all tapeworms, it needs an intermediate host in which it develops into a tapeworm fin.
The development cycle of the fox tapeworm occurs mainly in a cycle among wild animals. The fox, as the definitive host, houses the sexually mature worm and excretes tapeworm eggs with its faeces. Mice and muskrats ingest the eggs with their plant food, thereby becoming infected intermediate hosts. The development of the tapeworm fin takes place in the internal organs of these intermediate hosts. The small rodents, in turn, are eaten by the fox as their main prey. This is how the tapeworm fin gets into the definitive host, in whose intestine it develops into a sexually mature tapeworm.
Dogs can also eat infected mice. They then become final hosts, just like the fox, and the fox tapeworm parasitizes in their small intestine. However, symptoms such as intestinal inflammation, diarrhea, emaciation or a dull coat only occur in the case of severe worm infestation. The fox tapeworm infection in dogs is gaining in importance because the animals become shed of tapeworm eggs and their droppings – like that of the fox – can be a source of infection for humans.
Humans must ingest tapeworm eggs in order to become infected. In the development cycle of the fox tapeworm, it is a false intermediate host because it cannot pass the infection on to a definitive host. In its organs, however, fins develop – as in true intermediate hosts. The liver and lungs are primarily affected. This creates a network of tubes that largely destroys these organs. The fox tapeworm infection is therefore very dangerous for the intermediate human host. A cure is hardly possible.
Avoiding the risk of infection is particularly important. Fruits that grow close to the ground, such as berries and mushrooms, can be infected with tapeworm eggs and are therefore a dangerous source of infection for humans. They should never be eaten unwashed.
When dealing with four-legged mouse catchers, hygiene is the best protection against infection for humans. Unwashed hands that have touched the fur in the anal region must not be brought to the mouth. Also, dogs kept near fox populations should be dewormed regularly. The vet administers a prescription drug that is particularly effective against fox tapeworm. The intestinal parasites die off and the production of worm eggs is interrupted.
Alaskan Malamute Activities and Training
Sled dogs were primarily used in areas with a lot of snow, where they were harnessed to sleds as draft animals, enabling people to move around and transport goods and objects in snow and ice. Indigenous peoples, for example in Siberia, were probably the first to use these dogs in this way.
In principle, any dog of medium size can pull a sled, but classic sled dogs are characterized by the fact that they are very resistant to cold. Typical sled dogs include the Alaskan Malamute, the Siberian Husky, the Greenland Dog and the Canadian Eskimo Dog.
The Alaskan Malamute definitely needs a lot of exercise and needs to work. At best, it can be used to pull loads. This breed cannot be happy if kept strictly as house dogs. There is now the possibility of draft dog sport with the Alaskan Malamute in Germany.
The breed is not suitable for all other dog sports. In addition to dog sports, it is also very important that the dog is taken on long walks in nature. The following applies: the colder the weather, the longer the walk can be, at least when it comes to the malamute.
How much exercise does an Alaskan Malamute need?
The Alaskan Malamute needs a lot of exercises. That means at least four or five hours a day at a suitably fast pace.
Good to know: Special features of the Alaskan Malamute
There are numerous beautiful mixed breeds with the Alaskan Malamute and other breeds. Many owners of these dogs try to cross other breeds to improve the dogs’ performance. For this reason, one or the other Alaskan Malamute Mix is in the animal shelter waiting to be adopted.
Many American stars and celebrities have owned an Alaskan Malamute. These include, for example, former US President Herbert Hoover and actor Robin Williams. Also in many films and series, such as Indiana Jones, Call of the Wild or Dr. Quinn has been seen the Alaskan Malamute in the past.
Many people confuse the two dog breeds Alaskan Malamute and Siberian Husky. In contrast to the husky, the malamute is slightly larger and heavier and is not as fast. Huskies were bred primarily for their speed and agility. Malamutes are more characterized by strength and endurance. Another difference to the Husky is that Malamutes do not have blue eyes, but brown eyes.
Where can I buy an Alaskan Malamute?
Best from a reputable breeder. Information about registered breeders is available from the VDH, the German Club for Nordic Dogs, or the Alaskan Malamute Club. Alternatively, you can find what you are looking for in online dog markets.
Disadvantages of the Alaskan Malamute
The disadvantage of the Alaskan Malamute is that its owner has to adapt to him completely. This sled dog requires a lot of exercise in all weathers. In addition, it cannot be used for any other type of dog sport than for draft dog sport. When it comes to diet, this dog is quite picky and is best fed with the elaborate raw diet. He can only be led if the human being manages to build up a real relationship of trust with this sled dog through sovereignty.
Is the Alaskan Malamute right for me?
If you want to get an Alaskan Malamute, you have to know exactly what you’re getting yourself into and that your life has to be adapted to the dog. Basically, it is important to be sporty and active as a person, to go outside for several hours in any weather, to have dog experience and to be able to offer the sled dog a confident leadership style.
Even if the Malamute has gained trust in its owner, it will not become a dog of unquestioning obedience and will always keep its own head. Owners of a Malamute should not work full-time all day, but invest a large part of their time with the dog. The Alaskan Malamute cannot be left alone for long periods of time and should live in a house with a yard in the country.
The Malamute is not a classic family dog. Although he usually likes children, this dog should not be left alone with a child. The breed is one of those dogs that may sometimes injure a child. This does not mean that the Alaskan Malamute is inherently dangerous to children. He just needs to be well socialized with them and needs contact with them to get used to them. Therefore, there is no need to be afraid if children are in a room with the Malamute, it is only important to supervise them and to include the dog in the family accordingly, so that he does not become jealous.
Anyone who likes to have a clean apartment will probably not be happy with the Alaskan Malamute, because he loses quite a lot of hair at times. The texture of this dog’s coat also allows dirt to dry and fall out. Therefore, this dirt will gradually accumulate in the apartment together with the hair. However, the Malamute does not necessarily have to be kept indoors all the time, because it can be outside all year round.
Since sled dogs used to not be fed, they had to be able to hunt their own food. This means that the Malamute has a strong hunting instinct and is a true hunter. So he not only chases his prey, he also kills them. The hunting instinct can sometimes be difficult to control as it is an innate behavior.
The Alaskan Malamute does not make a good guard dog, as they are generally so friendly to people that they greet intruders rather than deter them. This dog is not at all suitable for beginners and seniors, because it has to be trained very consistently with sovereign leadership, has a strong will of its own, has a high need for physical exertion and a lot of strength.
So you want an Alaskan Malamute?
You can’t expect deadly obedience from a Malamute, they want to be explained and see why they should do certain things.
Can you live with the fact that every second person thinks they have to hit on you because you keep a sled dog in our latitudes? Tip: Ask him what latitude Alaska is on!! And rest assured that Alaskan dogs can handle temperature differences of 70 degrees Celsius with no problem.
If you buy an Alaskan Malamute anyway, be absolutely sure that you will have a lot of fun with this robust original breed. Nonetheless, a few things should first be made clear.
Do you really have the time to keep this dog in a species-appropriate manner, that is, to exercise with it, and if possible not to leave it alone or only for short periods of time because, it should be mentioned again, the Malmute needs company! It is very difficult for him to be left alone, and many who own an Alaskan Malamute soon have a second. Do you have space for this?
are you really consistent, or can the cute little pup soon wrap you around his finger and take over the leadership of the pack? Then you have a problem! He won’t get along with other dogs, he’ll never respect you, and in no time he’ll end up in a shelter. What a shame about these beautiful dogs!
Do you have children or are you expecting a baby? can they live with the fact that their dog will lick their child’s face and it won’t grow up as sterile and hygienic as the neighbor’s children who don’t have a dog? Malamutes are people-friendly and fond of children, but you should never leave your Malamute alone with children, they don’t see them as people but as objects and could hurt them. On the other hand, it is important that he is allowed to lick their children’s faces and has physical contact with the little ones. The Mahlemiuts put the dogs to bed with their children so that they were nice and warm. But a dog has no place with a baby in bed. So here too, it is important to find a healthy middle ground. If you exclude the dog, he will get jealous. So if you are there, let the dog play calmly with the children.
Do you prefer a clean apartment with no hair? Well then you are wrong here! The Malamute itself is very clean, which cannot be said of its surroundings. He sheds and his fur is such that dirt dries and falls out. Where he prefers to be, it looks like this……
The Alaskan Malamute has a strong hunting instinct, he had to look after himself in his country of origin over the summer months, and the sled dogs were also generally used for hunting. That means your “little darling” might escape, catch a chicken or something, and then, for the damage you’ll have to repair, all you can do is walk your Alaskan Malamute on a leash, and that into everyone Eternity.
If you have understood all of this and then decided on this breed after all, you will have a dog that is not a one-man dog. What does this mean? The Alaskan Malamute was never bred to stay with a family, it has been traded, sold etc. This means, by nature, it is adaptable to any new environment, painful as it is for the owners, it is in able to exchange you for a new environment and new owners in no time. He loves you dearly, but will also love the new owner dearly.
By his innate philanthropy he will welcome any intruder, they can’t arm him, he’ll never make a guard dog, thank goodness because he’d be an unpredictable weapon due to his physical strength. So if you need a guard dog, consider switching to a different breed.
If you follow all the advice and the temperament of this dog is what you imagined, I can only congratulate you,
In my opinion, you have the most beautiful dog there is.
